“She is your mirror, shining back at you with a world of possibilities. She is your witness, who sees you at your worst and best, and loves you anyway. She is your partner in crime, your midnight companion, someone who knows when you are smiling, even in the dark. She is your teacher, your defense attorney, your personal press agent, even your shrink. Some days, she’s the reason you wish you were an only child.” ~ Barbara Alpert
I have two great sisters; Joanne and Maria. I wish they both could have come to visit, but Maria was in the middle of planning for the upcoming wedding of her first daughter. Taking time to come out wasn’t an option at the time. Joanne’s husband couldn’t take time off the business so she was flying to France with her girlfriend from high school, Kathy. It was the first time in France for both of them.
The day before they were due to fly in I was getting a little nervous about leaving Ian to go to Montpellier Airport to pick them up. The only time I left him all summer was to go to the grocery store. He was usually ok when I got home, but sometimes he’d be in distress. I was also anxious because he wasn't feeling well and started feeling nauseous and vomiting most of the day. I was hoping that if there was a crisis, we’d get him to the hospital the day before I had to pick Jo up at the airport because I couldn't leave him alone like that. He insisted he’d be all right. He was a little better by the evening. I went to bed that night hoping for the best. He had been sleeping on the sofa-bed. I woke up in the early morning to sounds of him babbling in the salon. I got up and went in to see how he was. He was talking nonsense. His speech was like baby talk and he was talking to no one there. He didn't seem to be able to respond to any questions, even by gesture so I don’t believe he understood or knew what was being said or able to communicate what was happening or what he was feeling. I was afraid he was having a stroke so I called emergency and got him to the hospital as soon as I could.
I know that with a stroke it is imperative to be treated as soon as possible. By the time he was off to the hospital it was about 5 am. I had to leave to pick up my sister by 7:30. I thought I’d wait until he got settled in the hospital and then call to see how he was. If he was stable I’d go pick up my sister and we’d stop in at the hospital on the way home. At 7 the hospital called and told me to get down there because it was not looking good. I didn't know what to do about my sister. There was no way they could grab a cab back here because they didn't know the language or the area. Plus it would have been very expensive from Montpellier. I managed to get hold of Wendy before I left and she put it on Facebook. I knew Joanne had her iPad and hoped she'd get online while at the airport. Luckily, she did. I told Wendy to have her just sit tight. I’d get there eventually.
The sun was sporting a beautiful azure-blue Mediterranean sky to welcome Joanne and Kathy to the south of France. I pulled in to Montpellier airport and drove past the front doors… there was Joanne and Kathy. I honked and waved. They looked so relieved to see me. I motioned I'd go park… I couldn't find an entrance to pull up where they were standing so I parked in the lot. Soon we were hugging and packing their luggage into the cracks and crevasses of the trunk and back seat of the car. Already my morale had lifted a thousand percent. I was so happy to see a kindred spirit! We drove back to Nîmes hospital to see Ian. It was amusing to watch their first reactions to France… and their first encounters with “roundabouts.”
We arrived at the hospital just when they were wheeling Ian into a room in the neuro ward. He seemed slightly better… at least he recognized me, but he was still a little incoherent and looked so frail and fragile. My sister gave me a look as if to say “wow, you are dealing with a lot more than I thought” and I felt relieved that at last someone sees! I followed him into the room to spend some time with him and after a while brought Joanne in from the hallway to say hello. I know he wanted me to stay longer but we needed to get Joanne and Kathy checked in to le Lys d’Ors (hotel) and stop by Carrefour (supermarket) so we’d have something to eat since I didn't know where we could go for dinner that would be open. I explained to Ian that we would see him tomorrow, but probably not until the afternoon. I think he understood.
After we were all settled, had a dinner of local wines and cheeses, and called home to assure safe landings we talked about what we could do tomorrow and visit Ian as well. We decided to have lunch in Nîmes near the Nîmes Arena and then shoot over to the hospital.
Jo and me at Nimes Arena |
Nîmes
Nav-Sat Emily easily got us to the Arena … parking was another story. Had to do a “European park” (see photo beow) … my sister, Jo – knowing my driving history – was amazed… and hysterical… they’ll never believe this back home… thus the photo!Nîmes has a rich history, dating back to the Roman Empire but even further back than that were findings of a Neolithic site showing evidence of semi-nomadic cultivators in the period 4000 to 3500 BC. There were also traces of a village of huts and branches from the Bronze age. Nîmes became a Roman colony sometime before 28 BC. The Arenas of Nîmes is a Roman amphitheatre built around 70 AD, it was remodeled in 1863 to serve as a bullring.
my European car park ... anywhere it fit in Nimes |
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The Arenas of Nîmes is the site of two annual bullfights, and it is also used for other public events. (British rock band Dire Straits recorded some of the live video and album, On the Night, in May 1992; American Heavy Metal band Metallica recorded their DVD, Français Pour Une Nuit, on July 7, 2009 and French New Wave filmmaker François Truffaut filmed part of his first film, "Les Mistons", in 1957.)
We had a really nice lunch near the Arena, did a little window shopping and headed back to visit Ian at the hospital. He seemed a little better and even recognized that Joanne was my sister and in from New York. He joked around a little. I spoke with the nurses and he did have a mini-stroke (a second one). They were giving him medications and they suspected epilepsy and would give him meds for that as well. I felt better about his condition, especially seeing some improvement. His mood was fair… he hadn’t eaten and was a little cranky with the staff… but all in all, better. I asked them to bring him something to eat and they said they would. I know that he is used to me being there all day long with him, but I hoped he realized that wasn’t possible with out of town guests. I was just so grateful that he was safe and in a place where they will be taking care of him. I couldn’t imagine doing these day-trips and leaving him alone at home so if he couldn’t be home and healthy and riding around with us giving guided tours (which he would have done so much better than me,) this was probably the best place he could be.
Kathy and Jo at the cafe downstairs from our apartment |
La Grande-Motte
La Grande-Motte is a popular Mediterranean seaside resort and port. The only thing I know that characterizes La Grande-Motte is its architecture; buildings in the shape of a pyramid. But the main goal for me was moules-frites … and … mission accomplished. It was a wonderful lunch by the marina even though it was a cloudy day. We had a great girl’s day. I drank it in like a fine wine, savoring every drop!
my sister Jo at La Grande Motte |
España
Driving to Spain was a lot of fun. The scenery driving through the south of France along the Mediterranean coast was very beautiful. We passed through the Petite Camargue (which is where we live). The Petite Camargue is an area between the Mediterranean Sea and the two arms of the Rhone River Delta. It is a wetlands protected as a National Park and home to the famous white Camargue horses (and cowboys), black bulls and pink flamingos. As we drive we can see the rice paddies and reed covered marshes. We also passed a lot of wind farms with great white arms churning like goliaths on hilltops. Nav-Sat Emily took us down through the coastal area always hugging the sea to our left so that every now and then we'd pass a beach or port village sporting views to that deep blue water merging with endless blue sky.
It wasn't too long before we found ourselves in the Pyrenees Mountains oooo'ing and ahhhh'ing at what we were seeing. We stopped there for lunch and gas. We were pretty amazed at the quality of food you get at a rest stop. Nothing like the greasy, processed fare you find along the tollways in the States. We really enjoyed the lunch. That was the only stop we needed to make on the trip because it’s really only about a 2-1/2 hour drive from Vauvert. Emily took us straight to the Dali Museum and parked easily (for once). We were a little disappointed there was no border stop – we wanted our passports stamped… oh well.
Salvador Dali |
In the early 1960’s, Dali decided to construct his museum inside the ruins of the old Municipal Theatre of Figueres. The building was originally constructed between 1849 and 1850 but was destroyed by a fire at the end of the Spanish Civil War in 1939. The only parts that remained intact were the vestibule and the foyer. His fascination with the ghostly ruins of the theatre captivated Dali and he chose it as the site of his future museum.
“Where, if not in my own town, should the most extravagant and solid of my work endure, where if not here? The Municipal Theatre, or what remained of it, struck me as very appropriate, and for three reasons: first, because I am an eminently theatrical painter; second, because the theatre stands right opposite the church where I was baptised; and third, because it was precisely in the hall of the vestibule of the theatre where I gave my first exhibition of painting.” ~ S. Dali
Teatro Museo Dalí ~ Figueres, Spain |
Dali died in 1989. His crypt can be visited. It is located in the center of the museum and lies with an exhibit of a collection of gold jewelry designed by the artist.
The streets of Spain were lively and filled with tourists. Kathy bought a beautiful Spanish shawl. I wish I picked one up. The only memento I bought was a great Dali calendar for 2013 ... but in hindsight... the shawl would have lasted longer and when I think about how beautiful her shawl was I could kick myself for not getting one for myself. Perhaps on another visit to Spain. After the museum we had a great dinner and savored the ambiance of Catalonia. As always, all too soon we had to head home. By the time we left Spain it was dark - driving in the dark - well, that part wasn't so much fun.
The next morning we slept in a little. Joanne and Kathy stopped at the boulangerie for baguettes and croissants and we met here for coffee. Then we headed for the Cave Cooperative (Cave Des Vignerons de Vauvert )… Joanne had seen photos and wanted to see for herself. Both were suitably impressed. We walked around the village and stopped in the café for some rosé and then went to visit Ian in the hospital. Happy to see that every day he was a little better we kind of dropped a bomb on him. Joanne and Kathy wanted to go to Italy. They would treat me to an overnight stay. I knew Ian would have a kitten when he heard that, but Joanne insisted and broke the news to Ian. Then I had to try to explain that we would not be visiting for 2 whole days. He sounded like he understood that we wouldn’t see him tomorrow or the next day, but would be there as soon as we could the following day. But I knew he wouldn’t understand why I wasn’t there for so long. I spoke to his Godson, Philippe and asked him to call him to remind him. Of course when Philippe called Ian complained that his wife never visited and that I didn’t love him anymore, which upset me to no end, but I didn’t know that until I got back. Ignorance is bliss, so driving to Italy was a great and much needed adventure.
Cannes
Jo in Cannes |
Jo and me in Cannes |
Cannes is a commune of France located in the Alpes-Maritimes department. Everyone knows it from the famous Cannes Film Festival. If you don’t you must have been living on another planet. The city is also famous for its luxury shops, restaurants, and hotels.
In the 2nd century BC the Ligurian Oxybii established a settlement here. They were ancient indo-european peoples who gave their name to Liguria – the region in north-western Italy that we were headed to. The settlement was known as Aegitna but historians are unsure what the name means. The area was a fishing village used as a port of call. In 891 it was attacked by the Saracens (Muslims) who remained until the 10th century. The town was known as Canua (probably derived from ”reed” as where most of the city now stands was swamps) but by 1035 with the construction of a castle which fortified the city it was known as Cannes. Monks seeking refuge from attacks on the nearby Lérins islands controlled the city for hundreds of years. Around 1530 Cannes detached from the monks and became independent.
In the 19th Century Henry Peter Brougham (a British statesman who became Lord Chancellor of Great Britain) bought land there, improved living conditions and attracted English aristocracy who built their winter residences there. With the 20th century came new luxury hotels such as the Miramar and the Martinez. The city was modernized with a sports center, street cars, a post office, and schools. There were fewer British and German tourists after the First World War but more Americans. Winter tourism gave way to summer tourism and the summer casino at the Palm Beach was constructed. The city council had the idea of starting an international film festival shortly before World War II. The first opened on 20 September 1946, held in the Casino Municipal.
We drove down into Cannes off of A8/E80 into the center of the town. The tiny, hilly roads wound down to the Mediterranean coast and soon we found ourselves on the Promenade de la Croisette which goes along the coastline of Cannes and is lined with all those expensive shops, and hotels we’ve all seen in the movies and on tv. We parked where the port for boat cruises up and down the coast took off from. I really would have liked to have done a 2 hour tour along the coast, but Jo and Kathy preferred to explore the town, so once again I didn’t get my boat ride. Oh well, maybe another time. We walked around the Croisette taking photos, checked out shops and stopped for lunch at a restaurant on the Marina. We sat outside in the warm, Mediterranean sunshine … a beautiful day, taking in a beautiful view, filled with beautiful people, huge yachts and cruise liners as well as private boats, bustling traffic and posh stores and hotels. Very trendy, very touristy and oh so “other world” … we drank it all in and couldn’t believe we were there, even for just an afternoon. We loved it…. “Beautiful!”
Time was clipping by and though we had planned to stop in Nice as well, we decided to stay longer in Cannes. Maybe we’ll do Nice and Monaco on the way back. We needed to leave in time to get to Italy before dark, so we grudgingly made our way back to the car and left beautiful Cannes behind us.
Italia
The A8/A10 route from Cannes to Italy is the most beautiful, awesome and scariest drive I ever took. This route takes you from the Cote D'Azur to The Italian Riviera. My sister Jo will attest that it is a white knuckle drive… I can, in fact, still see the imprints of her nails on the dashboard. Yet it is one I don’t regret and will never forget. Driving out of Cannes you can feel the motorway slowly gaining in altitude. By the time you hit Monaco you are shooting through the Alps. By the time you hit Menton (at the Italian boarder) you have travelled as much in altitude as you have in time.
Once you hit Ventimiglia you are officially on the Autostrada… known as "Autostrada dei Fiori", Motorway of the Flowers. You also have to pay a toll before you even get on. It wasn’t posted as to how many Euros we were supposed to throw in. The whole time we’ve been using my credit card to pay the tolls so we didn’t have to fish around for the right amount of coins. But you couldn’t use a card in Italy. We had NO IDEA what the machine was saying in Italian so we kept dumping coins in hoping it was the right amount… it was NEVER satisfied and there were cars behind us. Finally, in frustration I just grabbed the change purse we had for such occasions out of Jo’s hand, dug my hand in and threw a fist full of change into the basket… after spitting out our change and finally hearing “grazie, buona giornata” the gate opened and off we went chugging up the next incline with Joanne and Kathy in such hysterical laughter over my ‘coin frustration’ that we are all in tears by the time we hit the tunnel.
The autostrada runs 158 kilometers (about 98 miles) from the French border to Genoa and has 136 tunnels and 143 bridges and viaducts. The legal speed limit on the autostrada is 130 km/h (81 mph) for cars but Italian legal limits allow drivers to zoom at 150 km/h (93 mph) if the road conditions are good. EVERYONE sped ahead of us… and I didn’t care. Speed on you crazy bastards … I’ll just chug on… over the massive viaducts soaring hundreds of feet above valleys (some almost 300 feet) and a if mountain got in the way we’d plunge straight through it (ok, we used the tunnel). Some of those tunnels were REALLY long but most of the time when you’d come out after a good 4 minutes in the dark… wham you’re hit with sunlight and some awesome view… either an alpine vista complete with snow summits and ever higher reaching peaks or a stretch of valley littered with brightly colored houses embraced by rock between sea and sky as the Mediterranean, never more than a few kilometers away at any given point, met the mighty Alps. Our favorite phrase of delight… “Beautiful!” (complete with hand wave) was uttered so consistently, it was almost a song (and a dance). I can’t find the words to express the beauty and grandeur of such a spot on this amazing planet. Pictures would never have captured it, words are just totally inadequate and only music (that I don’t have at the moment of this writing) could possibly convey the feeling of overwhelming astonishment and awe at what we were seeing. Sometimes you just feel like a pimple on the butt of humanity; small and insignificant compared to the indomitable and dynamic forces of nature that leave such beauty.
At last, the exit for Diano Marina, our Italian destination. As we wound down from the mountains onto the small roads that led to the sea, the sun was just getting ready to set. Our dear guide, Emily, directed us straight to the hotel with no “recalculating” and we parked easily right across the street from our hotel. The Hotel Tina. Yes, I said the Hotel Tina. The hotel was chosen as much for its name as for its location; directly on a Mediterranean beach.
The next morning we had our breakfast on the beach. It was a beautiful, warm day. Joanne and Kathy decided to check out the town while I opted to sit on the beach and soak up the sun and read a book. Really wished I thought to bring my bathing suit but glad I at least brought shorts. People started dotting the beach with colorful umbrellas and blankets.
As much as I didn’t want to leave that beach, that scene, that relaxing atmosphere; my thoughts kept straying back to my Ian sitting in a hospital in Nimes. I knew he was being taken care of physically, but I knew that he was probably feeling abandoned. I tried to shake off the guilt and try to enjoy the moment as it was happening because I also knew that although Ian and I had planned to travel around Europe, what I was seeing on this trip with my sister is probably as far as I’d ever be able to travel. He was not in any shape to really go to all the places we talked about and the best we’d be able to explore is the area we live in. Not that there isn’t a lot to explore right where we live… but I had hoped to be able to see so much more of Europe. Maybe if things improve more and he is more confident about being away from home base we’ll be able to stretch out further, but whatever we do, we need to consider his health. Really, that comes first. Also, we don’t really have the money to do much more than that until I start bringing in some income or until I am able to collect my social security from the states. Then we’ll be in a better position anyway. But I knew, for a while anyway, this is as far as I would be able to stray… so I was trying really hard to soak in and enjoy what I could.
Too soon it was time for us to leave Italy. If I didn’t have to get back we surely would have stayed another day or so. There was so much we wanted to do and see and we were in such a beautiful, warm and peaceful place. Alas, real life beckoned so off we went… back through the Alps (at least we knew what to expect this time) down through Monaco, passing Nice without having time to stop since we stayed as long as we could in Italy… waved to Cannes as we passed and soon we were passing Marseille and gratefully flatter landscape to drive through. Before we knew it we were back in the Camargue and close to home. We unpacked and stopped in to Pizza Nico’s to order a pizza and went back to the apartment for more wine and cheese.
The next day Jo and Kathy came with me to visit Ian (who as I expected was upset that I hadn’t been there for so long and didn’t know where I was). We went to a local Vauvert resto for a quick dinner, back to the apartment for some pastries and coffee and off to bed. We were packing a lot into the time they were staying here, so at this point we were all exhausted. On their last day here I went to visit Ian alone and left them to explore Vauvert to their heart’s content. I’d meet them at the café when I got back. They went to Nico’s on their own to order a pizza which I’m sure was quite comical as they were trying to explain to them they didn’t want any “quack quack” on their pizza. I believe they went through a pantomime of all your basic barn animals for a yay or nay to the pizza topping. I’m sure they were talking about the crazy Americans at Pizza Nico’s for weeks.
Their last night in France was spent inhaling all the French cheeses, baguettes and local wines they could knowing they won’t find this in the States. We did a lot of reminiscing and talking about possible future visits and what we’d do next time. I was going to miss my sister like crazy. It was nice to have someone who knew you and you didn’t need to explain or justify things to. Who accepts you exactly how you are with no exceptions... a partner in crime, a cheerleader to my quirky artsy endeavors, and a believer in the religion of “don’t take life so friggin serious… lighten up and enjoy the ride!” Gotta love her… gonna miss her.
Thank you Ian, for giving me this time with my sister. It wasn't how we expected it to happen, and not how I wanted it to be... not without you there with us. But given all that was going on, it was just what I needed and the best gift anyone could have given me. I love you.